Tuesday Tips: Natural vs Dutch Process Cocoa

How often have you wondered if you should use Natural or Dutch cocoa in a recipe? And what exactly is the difference? Will it affect your baking?

Cocoa powder is made when chocolate liquor is pressed to remove 3/4 of its cocoa butter. The remaining cocoa solids are processed to make fine unsweetened cocoa powder. There are two types of unsweetened cocoa powder: Natural and Dutch-processed.

Actually, there's nothing very Dutch about Dutch Processed Cocoa. It's only called a Dutching process because the person who invented it, Coenraad J. van Houten, was a 19th century Dutchman who pioneered the use of the hydraulic press to defat chocolate liquor. Van Houten's solution lay in simple chemistry. Cocoa in its natural state is slightly acidic, as indicated by its pH value of around 5.4. By soaking the cocoa nibs in a basic (or alkaline) solution, he found he could raise the pH to 7 (neutral) or even higher. The higher the pH, the darker the color. And, the acids present in natural cocoa were neutralized, reducing its harshness.

To learn more about the differences between Dutch-processed cocoa and natural cocoa, read this article in Cook's Illustrated.

Planning to bake with cocoa? Here's advice from David Lebowitz, the King of Chocolate.

Because natural cocoa powder hasn’t had its acidity tempered, it’s generally paired with baking soda (which is alkali) in recipes. Dutch-process cocoa is frequently used in recipes with baking powder, as it doesn’t react to baking soda like natural cocoa does.

Many classic American recipes, like Devil’s Food Cake, use natural cocoa powder. There is also a reaction between natural cocoa powder and baking soda that occurs in recipes, which creates a reddish crumb, like Devil’s Food Cake.

There are exceptions to each, of course. And according to Fine Cooking magazine, “You can substitute natural cocoa powder for Dutch-process in most recipes (though not vice versa). Flavor and texture can be affected, but generally only in recipes calling for 3/4 cup or more.” However when a batter-based recipe calls for natural cocoa powder, do not use Dutch-process cocoa powder. But I always advise folks to follow what the recipe says. For sauces and ice creams, they can be swapped out. For cakes and cookies, I don’t recommend it, as your results may not be the same if you make substitutions.

If a recipe calls for either, the main different is that Dutch-process cocoa will give a darker color and a more complex flavor whereas natural cocoa powder tends to be fruitier tasting and lighter in color.

Here are a few cocoas I like that are great in brownies, devil's food cake and other chocolate baked goods: King Arthur Flour Double-Dutch Dark Cocoa,  Callebaut, Guittard, Valrhona, Ghirardelli, and Trader Joe's.

When used alone in cakes, cocoa powder gives a full rich chocolate flavor and dark color. Cocoa powder can also be used in recipes with other chocolate (unsweetened or dark) and this combination produces a cake with a more intense chocolate flavor than if the cocoa wasn't present.

Most recipes call for sifting the cocoa powder with the flour but to bring out its full flavor, combine the cocoa powder with a small amount of boiling water. (If you want to try this in a recipe, substitute some of the liquid in the recipe for the boiling water.)

As I mentioned above there are two types of unsweetened cocoa powder: Natural and Dutch-processed. When in doubt, use the type specified in the recipe. Some prefer using Dutch-processed cocoa as a slight bitterness may be tasted in cakes using natural cocoa and baking soda.

Another Tip: Don't confuse unsweetened natural and Dutch-processed cocoa powder with sweetened cocoa drink mixes. They are not the same thing. 

O.K. all the above is basic baking cocoa information. For me, though, the reality is that natural and Dutch processed cocoa powder are pretty much interchangeable. There are very few recipes that are thrown off by the presence or absence of the acidity of cocoa powder. In fact, many of the ingredients you regularly use in baking are slightly acidic, so even recipes that seem to rely on the acidity of cocoa powder to produce leavening are getting their acidity from milk, butter, egg yolks, honey (sugar is neutral), etc, and the recipe should turn out just fine whichever cocoa you use-- Dutch process or natural cocoa powder.

Cocoa Spiced Salmon

I'm at the Coast this weekend, and I was trying to come up with a recipe for fish using chocolate. With Cinco de Mayo coming up, I have mole on the brain, but I was really hoping to do something else--although mole goes well with firm fish. Then I remembered a recipe I made last summer. I found it on Yummly (Every recipe in the world). If you haven't been there, be sure and check it out. You can find just about anything there. The recipe below is from Dave Reifsnyder and appeared originally, I think, on Food.com. I changed it just a tad by adding more cocoa and a very spicy chile powder. 

Salmon Season starts Monday in Northern California, so this recipe is pretty timely. What I like about this recipe is that the inside of the salmon remains very moist. This rub, and that's what it really is since it's dry, is also good with any firm white fish--halibut, swordfish, opa, and other fish. You can also use this cocoa spiced rub with barbecued salmon.

Cocoa Spiced Salmon

Ingredients
1 lb salmon fillet
1/4 cup sugar
1 tsp dry mustard
dash cinnamon
1 tbsp paprika
2 Tbsp cocoa
1/4 cup dark ancho chile powder
1 tbsp ground cumin
2 tsps ground pepper (fresh)
1-1/2 tbsp kosher or sea salt

Directions
Rub salmon fillet with olive oil and press flesh side firmly into spice mix.
Place skin side down on broiling pan and broil for 10 minutes.
Move broiling pan into 425 degree oven and bake for additional 10 minutes or until center of filet is opaque.

Do you have a chocolate fish recipe you'd care to share?

Dutch Process Cocoa Brownies

Today is Queen’s Day, sponsored by the Dutch Community. It is being celebrated at the Windmill in the Queen Wilhelmina Garden in Golden Gate Park, San Francisco, 11am-5pm.

So planning for the celebration today, I realized I have never mentioned anything about Dutch Cocoa here on DyingforChocolate.com. How often have you seen a recipe that called for Dutch cocoa and wondered exactly what that means.

Actually, there's nothing very Dutch about Dutch Processed Cocoa. It's called a Dutching process because the person who invented it, Coenraad J. van Houten, was a 19th century Dutchman who pioneered the use of the hydraulic press to defat chocolate liquor. Van Houten's solution lay in simple chemistry. Cocoa in its natural state is slightly acidic, as indicated by its pH value of around 5.4. By soaking the cocoa nibs in a basic (or alkaline) solution, he found he could raise the pH to 7 (neutral) or even higher. The higher the pH, the darker the color. And, the acids present in natural cocoa were neutralized, reducing its harshness.

These developments greatly expanded the use of chocolate, which had been mostly used as a beverage in Europe up until that point. Because Dutch process cocoa has a neutral pH, and is not acidic like regular cocoa, it cannot be used in recipes that use baking soda as the leavening agent and that rely solely on the acidity of the cocoa to activate it; it can instead be used in recipes that use baking powder for leavening.

To learn more about the differences between Dutch-processed cocoa and natural cocoa, read this article in Cook's Illustrated.

Planning to bake with cocoa? Here's advice from David Lebowitz.

Because natural cocoa powder hasn’t had its acidity tempered, it’s generally paired with baking soda (which is alkali) in recipes. Dutch-process cocoa is frequently used in recipes with baking powder, as it doesn’t react to baking soda like natural cocoa does.

Many classic American recipes, like Devil’s Food Cake, use natural cocoa powder. There is also a reaction between natural cocoa powder and baking soda that occurs in recipes, which creates a reddish crumb, like Devil’s Food Cake.

There are exceptions to each, of course. And according to Fine Cooking magazine, “You can substitute natural cocoa powder for Dutch-process in most recipes (though not vice versa). Flavor and texture can be affected, but generally only in recipes calling for 3/4 cup or more.” However when a batter-based recipe calls for natural cocoa powder, do not use Dutch-process cocoa powder. But I always advise folks to follow what the recipe says. For sauces and ice creams, they can be swapped out. For cakes and cookies, I don’t recommend it, as your results may not be the same if you make substitutions.

If a recipe calls for either, the main different is that Dutch-process cocoa will give a darker color and a more complex flavor whereas natural cocoa powder tends to be fruitier tasting and lighter in color.

Here are a few cocoas I like that are great in brownies, devil's food cake and other chocolate treats: King Arthur Flour  Double-Dutch Dark Cocoa,  Callebaut, Guittard, Valrhona and Ghirardelli.

The following recipe is adapted from Alice Medrich for Cocoa Brownies. Cocoa brownies have soft centers and crunchy 'crusts'. I love these, and as I've said before, you can never have too many brownie recipes. Use the very best cocoa!

Cocoa Brownies

Ingredients
10 tablespoons sweet butter
1 1/4 cups sugar
 3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder Dutch-process
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon Madagascar vanilla extract
2 cold large eggs
1/2 cup all-purpose flour

Directions
Position rack in lower third of the oven and preheat to 325°F.
Line bottom and sides of 8 x x8 baking pan with parchment paper or foil, leaving overhang on two opposite sides.
Combine butter, sugar, cocoa, and salt in medium heatproof bowl and set  bowl in wide skillet of barely simmering water. Stir from time to time until butter is melted and mixture is smooth.
Remove bowl from skillet and set aside briefly until mixture is warm, not hot.
Stir in vanilla with wooden spoon.
Add eggs one at a time, stirring vigorously after each one.
When batter looks thick, shiny, and well blended, add flour and stir until you cannot see it any longer, then beat vigorously for 40 strokes with wooden spoon or rubber spatula.
Spread evenly in lined pan.
Bake until toothpick comes out slightly moist-20 to 25 minutes.
Cool completely on a rack.
Lift up ends of the parchment or foil liner, and transfer brownies to a cutting board.
Cut into squares.

Cocoa/Hot Chocolate Recipes & Variations: National Cocoa Day

Vintage Cadbury Chocolate Ad

Today is National Cocoa Day, and it's blustery out there, so be sure and try one of these recipes to warm you up! I always post on National Cocoa Day, and this is an updated post with some new recipes. Cocoa or Hot Chocolate, whatever you call it, it's great!

In 2009, I posted several brands of cocoa that I enjoy, plus links and recipes. You'll definitely want to take a look. And, remember, using the best ingredients will result in the best cocoa/hot chocolate!

Following are some variations on classic Hot Cocoa/Hot Chocolate. Some recipes are for one, some for four, and some for a crowd.  Some use cocoa powder, some use chocolate bars, but all are delicious. If you have a favorite cocoa recipe, comment below with a link!


Peppermint Hot Chocolate

Ingredients
1 cup milk
1/2 cup cream
1 tablespoon Madegascar vanilla
3/4 cup granulated sugar
8 ounces 75-85% cacao chocolate, chopped
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon peppermint oil

Directions: Add milk, cream, vanilla and sugar to a pot and place over medium heat. When milk mixture is hot, add the chopped chocolate and stir constantly. Continue stirring, adding remaining ingredients. When mixture is starting to simmer, take off heat and serve.

Eggnog Hot Chocolate
What would the holidays be without eggnog? Try this and let me know what you think!

Ingredients:
1 egg
3/4 cup milk
1/2 cup water
3 tablespoons Unsweetened Dark Cocoa powder
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg

Directions: In blender or processor,  combine egg, milk, water, cocoa and nutmeg, blend until well mixed. Transfer mixture to top of a double boiler. Hear stirring occasionally, until mixture is steaming. Do not boil.

Argentinian Hot Chocolate
Ingredients:
4 cups whole milk
1/4 cup sugar
1 tsp Madegascar or Mexican Vanilla
4 ounces good quality dark chocolate, broken into 1 ounce pieces

Directions: Heat milk, sugar and vanilla in a pan until almost boiled. Remove from heat and divide  into 4 mugs. Immediately, pop a piece of chocolate in each mug. It will melt and have a fabulous taste.

Mexican Hot Chocolate

Ingredients:
2 teaspoons good-quality ground DARK cocoa
1 teaspoon sugar, plus extra to taste
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon ground almonds. You can add more if you want a thicker texture
1 cup milk

Directions: Mix all the ingredients, except the milk, together in an empty, clean glass jar. Shake until completely combined. Heat the milk in a pan and add the chocolate mix. Bring to a boil and reduce the heat. Simmer for about 2 minutes, stirring constantly; use a small whisk to froth the milk. Serve hot.

Mexican Hot Chocolate II

Ingredients
5  ounces dark Mexican Chocolate
2 tablespoons honey
1/4 cup hot water
Pinch of salt
1 tsp instant coffee
2 cups whole milk
1 egg (optional)
1/4 tsp Mexican vanilla extract
1 dried red chile pepper, smashed
Ground cinnamon for sprinkling

Directions: In saucepan over medium-low heat, add Mexican chocolate, honey, hot water, salt, coffee, and chile pepper. Heat, stirring constantly, until mixture just begins to boil; reduce heat to low and let simmer, stirring constantly, for another minute. Carefully stir in the milk and let sit over low heat until chocolate is too warm to touch. In a bowl, beat egg until frothy. Add vanilla extract and beat in well. Pour the hot chocolate mixture over the frothed egg and beat for about 15 seconds. (until you have about foam on top) Pour into mugs. Sprinkle mugs with ground cinnamon and shaved chocolate.

Honey Hot Chocolate   
The flavor of your cocoa will change with the variety of honey. Try lavender honey, sage, wildflower. I get my honey from Beekind that has so many local varieties, but also has international honeys. Available in Sebastopol and the Ferry Building in San Francisco, plus internet.

Ingredients
4 tablespoons cocoa powder
4 tablespoons honey
4 cups milk

Directions: Combine ingredients in a medium-size sauce pan. Heat over low heat, stirring occasionally until hot.

Hot Chocolate with Brown Sugar

Ingredients:
4 oz unsweetened chocolate
1/3 cup water
4 cups hot milk
3/4 cup brown sugar, packed
dash of salt

Preparation: In a double boiler (or saucepan over a saucepan), melt the chocolate and water together. Slowly mix in milk, sugar and salt. Whisk until chocolate is smooth and blended.

Parisian Warm Chocolate
I'm not sure where I found this recipe, but it works! Anything French works! Lots of varieties on this. Experiment!

Ingredients:
1 cup whole milk
1/3 heavy cream
1/4 cup sugar
6 oz chocolate- 65-75% cacao chocolate, chopped

Directions: Simmer the milk, cream and sugar together until just boiling. Stir in the chocolate until melted. Don't let it boil. Serve warm in mugs.

Spicy White Hot Chocolate

Ingredients
4 cups milk
7 oz. good white chocolate (Guittard, Ghirardelli), chopped
1 egg, beaten
¼ tsp cayenne pepper
½ tsp ground cinnamon

Directions: Put white chocolate in medium metal bowl or saucepan over another saucepan of  simmering water, or in the top half of a double boiler. Melt the chocolate, stirring occasionally until smooth. Stir in cayenne pepper and cinnamon. Whisk in the egg until smooth. Gradually whisk in one cup of the milk until completely incorporated (2-3 minutes). Gradually whisk in remaining milk, and heat until hot, but not simmering. Put in mugs and sprinkle with cinnamon or chocolate.

Peppermint White Chocolate Cocoa (is that redundant?)

Ingredients:
8 oz white chocolate, chopped
3 1/2 cups whole milk
6 hard peppermint candies, crushed fine
1/2 tsp peppermint extract
2/3 cup whipping cream

Directions: Beat chilled cream with crushed mints until stiff peaks form. Refrigerate for about an hour. Heat milk to a simmer, them mix in chocolate, whisking until chocolate is melted and smooth. Add mint extract and stir through. Pour into mugs and top with minty whipped cream.

Candy Cane Cocoa   
variation on recipe from Sean Paajanen About.com

Ingredients:
4 cups whole milk
3 ounces 60-85% cacao chocolate, chopped
4 red and white striped peppermint candies crushed
4 small red and white striped candy canes
whipped cream

Directions: In a sauce pan bring milk to a simmer. Add chocolate and crushed candies. Whisk until smooth. Divide hot cocoa between mugs and garnish with whipped cream and serve with a candy candy stirring stick. 
Pumpkin Pie Cocoa from Pattie Tierney

Cocoa in a Jar: Great for gifts or just to have on hand.

Elena Santangelo's Hot Cocoa Mix: 
5 parts nonfat dry milk, 2 parts sugar, 1 part cocoa, 1 part vanilla or hazelnut flavored creamer.
To that you can add all sorts of flavorings, cinnamon, etc.
3 Tbsps. per mug and no saucepans to clean.

About the photo: This Vintage Advertisement for Cadbury Cocoa is special to me. First, my niece-in-law is a descendent of the founders of Cadbury Chocolate company. Second, my sister, Judie Siddall, is the President of the Transferware Collectors Club and sells antique blue and white transferware (pottery), similar to what is pictured in this advertisement, although, her wares are much older. She can be found at Merlin Antiques.  And, we all like chocolate, so it's all in the Family!

King Arthur Flour Cocoa Page: Self-Saucing Chocolate Cake

February is Chocolate Month, and I have fabulous recipes this month. Lots of holidays, too, such as Valentine's Day, Chinese New Year and so many more!

I've often mentioned that I love the King Arthur Flour website, newsletter and products. Now they have a new page: All About Cocoa. Great information about Cocoa, Origins, Dutch or Natural and Specialty Cocoas.

Here's a great and easy gluten-free recipe from King Arthur Flour for Self-Saucing Chocolate Cake.. kind of like a lava cake, but a different recipe from ones I've posted. This chocolate treat can be dressed up with ice cream, whipped cream, or Irish Cream. I've used Kahlua!

SELF SAUCING CHOCOLATE CAKE

Batter
1/2 cup King Arthur Unbleached All Purpose Flour
1/4 cup sugar
1/4 cup Double-Dutch Dark Cocoa, Cocoa Rouge, or Dutch-process cocoa
1/4 cup almond flour or hazelnut flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon vanilla
3 tablespoons melted butter or vegetable oil
1 large egg
1/2 cup milk

Topping
1/2 cup sugar
2 tablespoons Double Dutch Dark Cocoa, Cocoa Rouge, or Dutch-process cocoa
pinch of salt
1 cup hot milk or hot water

Directions
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease four 1-cup ramekins or oven-safe mugs.
2. To make the cake: Mix together the flour, sugar, cocoa, nut flour, salt, and baking powder.
3. Whisk in the vanilla, melted butter or oil, egg, and milk.
4. Divide the batter between the prepared ramekins or mugs, using about 1/3 cup batter in each.
5. To make the topping: Whisk together the sugar, cocoa, and salt.
6. Divide among the ramekins or mugs, using two heaping tablespoons for each.
7. Top each ramekin or mug with 1/4 cup boiling water. Place on a baking sheet.
8. Bake the cakes for 18 to 22 minutes. The cake should be puffy, with some liquid boiling up around the edges.
9. Serve hot or warm. Top with whipped cream, a toasted marshmallow, ice cream, or a splash of Irish Cream (or Kahlua!).

Yield: 4 servings.

Photo: King Arthur Flour

December 12: National Cocoa Day

"Baby, it's cold outside" and since it's National Cocoa Day, it's a great day to make a good cup of Cocoa. When I was growing up there was only one cocoa in our home: Hershey's. Occasionally there was Nestle's. "Nestle makes the very best... ....chocolate" if you believed the advertising. I still have fond memories of Hershey's Cocoa. You made the syrup and then added sugar and milk, so you really made it to your liking. (In 2005 Hershey launched a SPECIAL DARK Cocoa)

But now that my cupboard is stocked with more sophisticated organic fair-trade cocoas and sipping chocolates, I always have a choice. Here are some of my favorites.

Rechiutti Dark Hot Chocolate
Dagoba Drinking Chocolate. Authentic Drinking Chocolate, Xocolatl Drinking Chocolate, Unsweetend Drinking Chocolate.
Chuao Spicy Maya Hot Chocolate, Winter Hot Chocolate, Abuela Hot Chocolate (lots of choices)
Scharffen Berger Natural Cocoa Powder (both sweet and unsweetened)
Dagoba: Authentic, Xocolatl, Unsweetened
Valor Taza Premium Drinking Chocolate
Ghirardelli Barista Dark Chocolate (this is for retail businesses)

Recipes:

• Want to make really rich hot cocoa? Substitute chocolate or vanilla ice cream for half the milk. Make sure to stir the cocoa and milk all the way through before adding the ice cream.
• For Cinco de Maya, I had a Recipe for Mexican Hot Chocolate. Why wait until May 5? Make this today.
• SavoryTV has Cafe Angelina's Chocolate L'Africain recipe. Cafe Angelina (226 rue de Rivoli) in Paris is famous for it's rich hot chocolate called Chocolate L'Africain for its Ivory Coast Cacao beans. Yum. This recipe is the next best thing to being there... well almost. Paris is Paris, after all.
  

And did you know that cocoa is also very good for you? Remember your resolution to drink more green tea for its cancer-fighting benefits? Well hot cocoa is a sweeter way to get your antioxidants. According to Cornell University food scientists, cocoa has three times more antioxidants than green tea. Drink up!!

Want to learn more about Cocoa? The Nibble has everything you want to know! Go HERE.